Milan, Italy – Italian authorities on Wednesday visited the headquarters of 13 high-end fashion firms, requesting detailed documentation on corporate governance and supply-chain oversight as part of an investigation into alleged worker exploitation at subcontractors. Judicial documents obtained by Reuters show the move is part of a broader effort to scrutinize labor practices in the Italian fashion industry.

The companies involved include some of the world’s most prominent luxury brands, such as Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Prada, Adidas Italy, Off-White, Missoni, Ferragamo, Givenchy Italia, Alexander McQueen Italia, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent Manifatture, Pinko, and Coccinelle. None of the 13 companies are currently under investigation, nor have prosecutors sought court-appointed administration, according to the documents.

Background of the Labor Probe

Italian magistrates have increasingly focused on labor abuse in fashion and luxury supply chains, particularly in Chinese-owned workshops producing garments for major brands. In previous operations, police discovered garments and subcontracting documents linked to various luxury labels, leading to judicial administration for six smaller companies and raising concerns about labor practices across the sector.

The operation on Wednesday was led by the Carabinieri labor unit in Milan, with support from officers in Florence, Parma, and Varese. Prosecutors clarified that the 13 targeted brands were not subject to judicial administration because only small quantities of their products were found in the inspected workshops.

Purpose of the Document Requests

The documents requested are intended to help prosecutors assess:

• Extent of involvement in exploited labor
• Adequacy of governance and compliance frameworks
• Effectiveness of internal control systems and supplier monitoring

Companies will have the opportunity to address any deficiencies by adjusting organizational and compliance models. Should they fail to act, Milan prosecutors reserve the right to take preventive or precautionary measures.

Government Efforts to Safeguard “Made in Italy”

Italian Industry Minister Adolfo Urso has emphasized the importance of protecting the reputation of Italian fashion globally. In October, the government proposed a law to establish legal certification of fashion companies, allowing brands to secure pre-emptive third-party certification of supply chain compliance.

“With this measure, it will be possible to secure Italy’s fashion supply chain, a source of pride for ‘Made in Italy’, and protect its reputation worldwide,” Urso said.

According to consultancy Bain, Italy is home to thousands of small manufacturers that account for 50%-55% of global luxury goods production, making compliance and governance oversight critical for maintaining the industry’s global reputation.

Scope of Requested Documents

The production orders cover a wide range of corporate and operational materials:

• Governance: company registry extracts, intercompany agreements, organization charts, job descriptions for supplier management staff, and board and statutory auditor meeting minutes (2023-present).
• Internal Control Systems: supplier accreditation procedures, monitoring protocols, and contractor instructions.
• Risk Assessment: organizational management models, supervisory body minutes, codes of conduct, whistleblowing registers, disciplinary sanctions, and training records.
• Audit Activity: audit function reports, supplier and subcontractor lists, contracts with workshops under investigation, and product-tracking systems.

The Italian fashion sector has also signed accords with legal and political authorities to combat worker exploitation, reinforcing the government’s commitment to ethical supply chains.